Viña Tondonia 1961 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Tondonia 1961 Gran Reserva
Winery: R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo.
ABV: 11.5% vol.
Winemaking
The wine spent six months in wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 9 to 10 years in seasoned American oak barrels (225-liter) crafted by the winery's own coopers. The wine underwent two manual rackings (trasiegos) per year and was clarified with fresh egg whites. Bottled directly from the cask without filtration. At that stage, a lacquer seal was applied to the neck of each bottle, replaced by a lead capsule upon final labeling. This particular bottling features a special label for the U.S. market. It rested for a minimum of 44 months in the cellar before its commercial release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Garnet-ruby color of medium-high depth; darker than other contemporary wines from the same era. Muted and deep, with limited brilliance. It shows a very fine turbidity and slight sediment at the base of the bottle. The wide, tawny rim shows a marked distinction from the meniscus.
 
Nose: Upon opening, it reveals a medium-intensity profile of immense subtlety. Earthy notes dominate, accompanied by an array of autumnal aromas: leaf litter, shaded forest floor, truffles, and chestnut husks. The reduction is evident and highly elegant, bringing forth withered flowers, Russian leather, old wood, smoke, and cigar box, all over a fragile backdrop of ripe fruit (strawberry tree/madroño) and ground spices. It remains steady on this path, gradually losing intensity over several hours.
 
Palate: It sheds its initial subtlety on the palate, proving to be compact, dense, and concentrated. It possesses a vivid acidity and firm, present tannins. The wine shows great structure and flavor; while it may lack immense depth, it offers remarkable vigor and a "surge" of vitality. One might easily mistake it for a 1964 Tondonia. Who said that no great wines were made in the odd-numbered years of the 1960s? 
 
Commentary
This 1961 is a magnificent surprise that challenges the hegemony of the legendary 1964. It is a robust and structural Tondonia that has preserved its "grip" and acidity perfectly. A vibrant example of the house style that proves how the right storage and traditional winemaking can turn a theoretically "lesser" vintage into a profound experience. 
 
Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Average: 93

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