Martínez Lacuesta 1928 Reserva Especial

Wine: Martínez Lacuesta 1928 Reserva Especial
Winery: Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 65% tempranillo, 35% garnacha, mazuelo, viura
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking
This wine was sourced from a selection of the Lacuesta family's oldest estate-owned vineyards (majuelos). It underwent fermentation and an initial 24-month maturation in a single large wooden vat (6,000–7,000 liters) without temperature control. The wine was then extensively aged for an additional 10 years, until 1940, in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels to develop its unique character, undergoing periodic manual rackings. This was followed by a secondary maturation in used wooden vats for 25 more years—reaching a total of 300 months of aging. It was eventually hand-bottled directly from the casks in mid-1965.
Historical Note: This late bottling was personally selected by the estate owners and vinified separately to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the founding of Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (1895–1965)."

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: The wine presents an extremely pale, translucent brownish-ruby hue, with an exceptionally low pigment load. It is one of the clearest, most pristine, and brilliant wines we have ever encountered; its color stability defies logic after nearly a century since the harvest. A very fine sediment is present at the base of the bottle, which must not be disturbed to avoid clouding the wine.

 

Nose: Expressive, as profound as it is ethereal, possessing immense complexity and a powerful momentum that continuously builds. It opens with subtle volatile notes that immediately project a trail of withered flowers, kirsch-soaked red fruit, pomegranate juice, and strawberry tree fruit (madroños). This is underpinned by a faintly balsamic and citrusy backdrop of lemongrass and orange twist. It radiates quality, flashing notes of cedar, cigar box, and exotic woods. Beautiful, ethereal, and mysterious; it displays fantastic poise and solidity, devoid of any rough edges. Upon aeration, it continues to evolve, acquiring a stunning autumnal character of forest floor, humus, walnut bark, and marron glacé

 

Nose: On the palate, it is silky, almost devoid of tannins, with a deceptively light and fragile appearance due to its pale color. A tightly wound, fresh, and sharp red—more linear than broad—driven by a vibrant acidity and unrelenting tension. There is a certain structural 'grip' that provides freshness and allows the wine to take hold with remarkable strength. Simply extraordinary! Without a doubt, this is one of the most majestic wines ever crafted in Rioja. It has defied the barriers of time, retaining so much life that it is hard to believe it is nearing its centenary. Even six decades after bottling, it hasn't lost an ounce of energy. I would venture to say it is in its prime, with a window of 25–30 years still ahead of it. This wine deserves our utmost reverence. It represents Rioja at its absolute zenith. A unique and unrepeatable masterpiece that everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.

Personal Score: 100
Price: 450€

Muga 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Muga 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Muga (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 40% Tempranillo, 40% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Viura
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking:
Forty percent of the grapes are sourced from estate vineyards, with the remainder coming from small Rioja Alta growers and trusted local producers. Each variety is vinified separately. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 18,000-liter wooden vats, followed by racking to clean vats using dried grape stalks as a natural filter. The wine remains for 12 months in vats and horizontal tanks for malolactic fermentation and stabilization. It is aged for 36 to 48 months in seasoned American oak barrels (average age of 12 years), many of which are crafted in the winery's own cooperage. Manual rackings occur every four months, followed by fining with fresh egg whites. It undergoes a minimum of four years of bottle aging in the Station District cellars before release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very light ruby color with low depth; translucent and brilliant. Limpid and sediment-free, featuring amber and garnet reflections. Broad, tile-colored rim, barely distinct from the meniscus. High viscosity with persistent tearing.

 

Nose: Immediately striking; an undeniable masterpiece. A Muga with an ethereal, autumnal spirit—as deep, seductive, and elegant as the greatest 1973 Riojas. It maintains the absolute purity of overripe fruit (strawberry tree, pomegranate, redcurrant) supported by a perfume of the finest reduction. A complex medley of pipe tobacco, ground peppercorns, dried morels, violet candies, truffle, moss, and Russian leather, with an unusual background of bancha tea, abaca, and jute fibers. Full of personality and unquestionable quality.

 

Palate: Its apparent fragility and lack of color transform into remarkable solidity and balance. Firm and expressive in every phase: caressing to the touch, vibrant on the palate, and exceptionally fine as it flows. Its duration and persistence are hard to believe. While a classic Rioja, it offers an extra dimension compared to the Prado Enea of the same period, combining power with ethereal lightness. Fresh, enveloping, and as weightless as it is concentrated.

 

Commentary:
Without a doubt, the finest Muga wine tasted to date. This 1973 Gran Reserva confirms the legendary status of its vintage, achieving a rare harmony between structural intensity and weightless elegance. A landmark of traditional Rioja winemaking at its absolute peak.

 

Personal Score: 98
Tasting Group Average: 97
Price: 160€

Viña Real 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Real 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking

The wine spent 12 months in oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. Maturation took place over 36 months in seasoned 225-liter barrels (70% American oak and 30% French oak). Bottled in March 1975. Depending on the vintage, it remained in the winery’s underground cellars for 48 to 100 months before its release in the late 1970s.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearence: Ruby-red with medium intensity. It shows low extraction and is exceptionally clear and limpid, with no sediment at the base. Brilliant, featuring reddish and orange iridescence. It presents a broad, tawny rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.

Nose: Deep and remarkably pure. The initial bouquet offers abundant olive brine, wild nuances (nettle, mint), and leaf litter, followed by black truffle, smoked pepper, and morels. It is refined, with chocolatey and liqueur-like undertones, revealing an array of red fruit in kirsch, cherries, and a balsamic "after-eight" lift with sage. Over time, it unveils candied red fruits and a subtle spirituous character, complemented by spiced notes of dried orange peel, cloves, and black pepper. Elegant, smoky, and sophisticated. At nearly 55 years old, its vibrancy is nothing short of extraordinary.

 

Palate: The palate is fully integrated yet retains impressive power. It possesses a silkiness that defies its age—seamless, polished, and with impeccable definition, reminiscent of the greatest Rioja classics. It is packed with fruit and energy: spirited, fresh, and rebellious against the passage of time. It has it all: personality, balance, smoothness, and an eternal finish exuding high-quality bitters. A wine that excels in every dimension; it has reached a magnificent drinking window, with no signs of decline in the near future. At its peak and ready to be savored.

Personal Score: 98

Berberana 1952 Gran Reserva

Wine: Berberana 1952 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo
ABV: [Not specified]

Winemaking:
The wine was initially aged for 18 to 24 months in large wooden vats dating back to the winery’s foundation (1877), where it underwent fermentation and maturation without temperature control. It was subsequently racked into seasoned 225-liter oak casks to continue its elevage for a period of 9 years (110 months). Following the traditional Riojan "barrel-to-barrel" method, a total of 16 rackings were performed—one every six months. The wine was hand-bottled directly from the cask in 1963 without filtration.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: A stunning pale reddish hue, brilliant and limpid. Its vibrant tone is remarkable, projecting vivid red and orange reflections. Entirely free of sediment.

 

Nose: Somewhat reticent upon opening and slow to unfurl during the first hour. Do not decant! The wine gradually ascends with evocative and uninhibited ferrous notes—reminiscent of blood, seasoned wood, and oxidized industrial elements (railway sleepers, rails, and rusted bolts)—followed by nuances of charcoal, arrope (grape must reduction), and toasted undertones. It initially possesses the character of an old 'vino quinado' (Sherry quinquina wine). This primary profile evolves step-by-step; the toasted and woody notes soften into caramelized sugar and fine vanilla, giving way to an emerging expression of stewed red and black fruit (figs, ripe plums). It continues to refine, gaining exceptional poise. The transitions are immensely complex, revealing scrubland, wine-soaked oak, cocoa powder, earthy minerals, and a floral touch of withered petals. Beautiful and fully intact. It bears a striking resemblance to the 1952 Berberana Cosecha Especial; the house style is unmistakable in every element. Simply extraordinary!!

 

Palate
The highlight is the palate: fresh, articulate, and tense, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that delivers spicy flickers and a finish with a subtle citrus-edged red fruit sensation. It could easily pass for a wine two decades younger. The initial attack is seamlessly integrated, displaying perfect proportions. This is a balanced, complex red with an elegance seldom seen in the second half of the 20th century in Rioja. It is a wine definitively linked to the 19th-century expression of Rioja, possessing a purity and definition that is truly formidable. It still has an extensive life ahead. Excellent!

 

Personal Score: 97
Price: 180€

Viña Albina 1956 Reserva

Wine: Viña Albina 1956 Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano, 5% Viura and others
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking:
Aged in cask from 1957 to 1972 before being hand-bottled. Then, it was stored in the old racks of Bodegas Riojanas. Initially, it was planned to be bottled as the regular Viña Albina Reserva in 1961. The finest casks were identified and chosen through rigorous tasting in the early years and set aside for extended aging separately from the rest. These barrels were aged for a longer period and finally hand-bottled in 1972. Throughout the first six years, the wine was racked every six months using the traditional Riojan 'cask-to-cask' method. To commemorate the centenary of Bodegas Riojanas (1890–1990) the wines werevcellared at the winery racks until 1990. 

Tasting notes

Appearance: Medium-high intensity with a deep reddish-ruby core, evolving into amber and tawny reflections at the rim. The contrast between the brick-colored edge and the meniscus highlights its noble aging.

 

Nose: A quintessential classic profile. It unfolds with delicate tertiary aromas of leather and stable, underpinned by ripe red forest fruits, vanilla, and dried tea leaves. As it breathes, it reveals sophisticated notes of orange marmalade, cherries in kirsch, and withered rose petals, all wrapped in a bouquet of aromatic herbs. It retains a remarkable, vibrant energy that bestows immense character and poise.

 

Palate: Perfectly aligned with the nose; a rounded and impeccably structured red. It offers a velvety, silken mouthfeel with a refined sweetness that persists from the first sip. This wine epitomizes the virtues of the legendary 1956 vintage at the Bodegas Riojanas Estate. The experience is one of pure finesse: fully integrated, melting tannins, succulent red fruit, and lingering nuances of smoked cedar and vanilla. Seven decades later, these wines remain the gold standard of La Rioja. Pure liquid artistry!

Personal Score: 96
Price: 180€

Viña Ardanza 1973 Reserva Especial

Wine: Viña Ardanza 1973 Reserva Especial
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 81% tempranillo, 19% garnacha
ABV: 12,8% vol.
Winemaking
The Garnacha was sourced from very old vineyards in Tudelilla (Rioja Baja), while the remaining grapes came from the Viña Ardanza estate in Montecillo and small producers from Haro, Briñas, Briones, Villalba, and Labastida.  The wine fermented and matured 18,000-liter oak tuns followed by 4 years of aging in seasoned American oak barrels, with a total of 9 manual rackings. Bottled directly from the barrel, not filtered, in December 1977 and January 1978. It rested for 24 months in the bottle prior to its commercial release. This is the second Viña Ardanza to be released as "Reserva Especial," a distinction shared in the 20th century only with the 1964 vintage.
Historical Context
The 1973 vintage was defined by a biting cold winter without frost damage, and a wet spring that provided essential water reserves. Despite irregular rainfall, the heat of the summer allowed for a concentration that explains the wine's remarkable vibrancy today.

 Tasting notes 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby with medium intensity. Exceptionally limpid, displaying vivid reddish highlights. Bright and pristine, it features a distinctive tawny rim that transitions seamlessly toward the meniscus.

 

Nose: Medium intensity, showing a pure profile free of initial artifice, though marked by subtle reductive notes. It demands aeration to fully unfurl its presence. This is a quintessential Viña Ardanza, exhibiting all the hallmarks of the house. Remarkably fragrant and perfumed, it possesses the poise of a truly great wine, offering layers of dried petals, cloves, and leather, alongside aromatic herbs like lavender, sage, and laurel. It is notably more expressive and open than other vintages. As it evolves, it reveals concentrated notes of ripe red fruit and sloe, framed by a refined toasted edge of freshly ground coffee, cocoa butter, seasoned hardwoods, and tobacco leaf.

 

Palate: Defined by finesse and a sense of weightlessness. It is light yet vibrant, driven by an acidulous core, mature tannins, and sophisticated bitters. While medium-bodied and subtle, its earthy character continuously gains volume, releasing remarkable energy and "nerve." There is a significant presence of spicy, evolved red fruit, showcasing the characteristic roundness and near-sweetness of aged Garnacha. A magnificent 1973 that captures the "Riojan Burgundy" style in a glass. This wine possesses immense character and structural integrity, perfectly embodying the magic of the 1973 harvest at the La Rioja Alta estate. 

Personal Score: 97
Price: 180€