Martínez Lacuesta 1928 Reserva Especial

Wine: Martínez Lacuesta 1928 Reserva Especial
Winery: Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 65% tempranillo, 35% garnacha, mazuelo, viura
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking
This wine was sourced from a selection of the Lacuesta family's oldest estate-owned vineyards (majuelos). It underwent fermentation and an initial 24-month maturation in a single large wooden vat (6,000–7,000 liters) without temperature control. The wine was then extensively aged for an additional 10 years, until 1940, in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels to develop its unique character, undergoing periodic manual rackings. This was followed by a secondary maturation in used wooden vats for 25 more years—reaching a total of 300 months of aging. It was eventually hand-bottled directly from the casks in mid-1965.
Historical Note: This late bottling was personally selected by the estate owners and vinified separately to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the founding of Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (1895–1965)."

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: The wine presents an extremely pale, translucent brownish-ruby hue, with an exceptionally low pigment load. It is one of the clearest, most pristine, and brilliant wines we have ever encountered; its color stability defies logic after nearly a century since the harvest. A very fine sediment is present at the base of the bottle, which must not be disturbed to avoid clouding the wine.

 

Nose: Expressive, as profound as it is ethereal, possessing immense complexity and a powerful momentum that continuously builds. It opens with subtle volatile notes that immediately project a trail of withered flowers, kirsch-soaked red fruit, pomegranate juice, and strawberry tree fruit (madroños). This is underpinned by a faintly balsamic and citrusy backdrop of lemongrass and orange twist. It radiates quality, flashing notes of cedar, cigar box, and exotic woods. Beautiful, ethereal, and mysterious; it displays fantastic poise and solidity, devoid of any rough edges. Upon aeration, it continues to evolve, acquiring a stunning autumnal character of forest floor, humus, walnut bark, and marron glacé

 

Nose: On the palate, it is silky, almost devoid of tannins, with a deceptively light and fragile appearance due to its pale color. A tightly wound, fresh, and sharp red—more linear than broad—driven by a vibrant acidity and unrelenting tension. There is a certain structural 'grip' that provides freshness and allows the wine to take hold with remarkable strength. Simply extraordinary! Without a doubt, this is one of the most majestic wines ever crafted in Rioja. It has defied the barriers of time, retaining so much life that it is hard to believe it is nearing its centenary. Even six decades after bottling, it hasn't lost an ounce of energy. I would venture to say it is in its prime, with a window of 25–30 years still ahead of it. This wine deserves our utmost reverence. It represents Rioja at its absolute zenith. A unique and unrepeatable masterpiece that everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.

Personal Score: 100
Price: 500€

La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1970

Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1970

Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo
ABV: 13.5%
Viticulture: The Tempranillo is sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta sub-zone, primarily from the municipalities of Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. The remaining grapes originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno.
 

Winemaking: Meticulous grape selection upon arrival. The wine spent between 12 and 18 months in the winery’s foundational centennial oak vats (grey wood) to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilization. It was then transferred to 225-liter American oak barrels, handcrafted in the winery’s own cooperage. The wine underwent an extensive aging period of 96 months with a total of 14 manual rackings (trasiegas) in the emblematic Vigier cellar. Bottled directly from the barrel without filtration. Limited production of 25,000 bottles (75 cl). Aged in the bottle for a minimum of 72 months prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes:
 

Appearance: The color alone is promising—highly unusual for a wine surpassing 40 years of age. It appears to be in its full youth. Bright, pristine reddish-ruby with a medium-high depth (capa) and no trace of sediment. It displays reddish and pomegranate highlights with a copper rim that remains relatively narrow against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Purity and depth. This wine possesses every hallmark of the greatest La Rioja Alta vintages, delivered in extraordinary concentration. Undeniably an "890" that sits among the legendary wines of Rioja. It opens with explosive power—a "cannon shot" of balsamic notes. Wild and layered with floral aromas of withered petals and Spanish broom, supported by a Mediterranean scrubland backdrop (rosemary, sage, oregano, mountain tea). Subtly, a soft, almost resinous hint of eucalyptus develops, bringing notes of leaf litter, walnut bark, truffle, and raw chestnut. Elegance personified. As it evolves, it offers very ripe red fruit, concentrated and sloe-like, with a refined toasted edge of freshly ground coffee, cocoa butter, fine hardwoods, cigar wrapper, and tobacco ash.

 

Palate: Pure roundness and balance. The mouthfeel is bright and fresh; while not overly heavy on the entry, it possesses an immense, lingering trajectory. It is remarkably complex and savory, filled with minute details and a candied finish. Spices emerge to coat spicy red fruit preserves. The tannins are pure silk, while the acidity envelops the palate like a velvet glove. It bears the indelible mark of the 1970 vintage. That an era so challenging for Spain could produce a wine of such caliber is simply inexplicable.

 

Personal Score: 99
Tasting Group Score: 98

Muga 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Muga 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Muga (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 40% Tempranillo, 40% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Viura
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking:
Forty percent of the grapes are sourced from estate vineyards, with the remainder coming from small Rioja Alta growers and trusted local producers. Each variety is vinified separately. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 18,000-liter wooden vats, followed by racking to clean vats using dried grape stalks as a natural filter. The wine remains for 12 months in vats and horizontal tanks for malolactic fermentation and stabilization. It is aged for 36 to 48 months in seasoned American oak barrels (average age of 12 years), many of which are crafted in the winery's own cooperage. Manual rackings occur every four months, followed by fining with fresh egg whites. It undergoes a minimum of four years of bottle aging in the Station District cellars before release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very light ruby color with low depth; translucent and brilliant. Limpid and sediment-free, featuring amber and garnet reflections. Broad, tile-colored rim, barely distinct from the meniscus. High viscosity with persistent tearing.

 

Nose: Immediately striking; an undeniable masterpiece. A Muga with an ethereal, autumnal spirit—as deep, seductive, and elegant as the greatest 1973 Riojas. It maintains the absolute purity of overripe fruit (strawberry tree, pomegranate, redcurrant) supported by a perfume of the finest reduction. A complex medley of pipe tobacco, ground peppercorns, dried morels, violet candies, truffle, moss, and Russian leather, with an unusual background of bancha tea, abaca, and jute fibers. Full of personality and unquestionable quality.

 

Palate: Its apparent fragility and lack of color transform into remarkable solidity and balance. Firm and expressive in every phase: caressing to the touch, vibrant on the palate, and exceptionally fine as it flows. Its duration and persistence are hard to believe. While a classic Rioja, it offers an extra dimension compared to the Prado Enea of the same period, combining power with ethereal lightness. Fresh, enveloping, and as weightless as it is concentrated.

 

Commentary:
Without a doubt, the finest Muga wine tasted to date. This 1973 Gran Reserva confirms the legendary status of its vintage, achieving a rare harmony between structural intensity and weightless elegance. A landmark of traditional Rioja winemaking at its absolute peak.

 

Personal Score: 98
Tasting Group Average: 97
Price: 160€

Viña Real 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Real 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking

The wine spent 12 months in oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. Maturation took place over 36 months in seasoned 225-liter barrels (70% American oak and 30% French oak). Bottled in March 1975. Depending on the vintage, it remained in the winery’s underground cellars for 48 to 100 months before its release in the late 1970s.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearence: Ruby-red with medium intensity. It shows low extraction and is exceptionally clear and limpid, with no sediment at the base. Brilliant, featuring reddish and orange iridescence. It presents a broad, tawny rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.

Nose: Deep and remarkably pure. The initial bouquet offers abundant olive brine, wild nuances (nettle, mint), and leaf litter, followed by black truffle, smoked pepper, and morels. It is refined, with chocolatey and liqueur-like undertones, revealing an array of red fruit in kirsch, cherries, and a balsamic "after-eight" lift with sage. Over time, it unveils candied red fruits and a subtle spirituous character, complemented by spiced notes of dried orange peel, cloves, and black pepper. Elegant, smoky, and sophisticated. At nearly 55 years old, its vibrancy is nothing short of extraordinary.

 

Palate: The palate is fully integrated yet retains impressive power. It possesses a silkiness that defies its age—seamless, polished, and with impeccable definition, reminiscent of the greatest Rioja classics. It is packed with fruit and energy: spirited, fresh, and rebellious against the passage of time. It has it all: personality, balance, smoothness, and an eternal finish exuding high-quality bitters. A wine that excels in every dimension; it has reached a magnificent drinking window, with no signs of decline in the near future. At its peak and ready to be savored.

Personal Score: 98

Berberana 1952 Gran Reserva

Wine: Berberana 1952 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo
ABV: [Not specified]

Winemaking:
The wine was initially aged for 18 to 24 months in large wooden vats dating back to the winery’s foundation (1877), where it underwent fermentation and maturation without temperature control. It was subsequently racked into seasoned 225-liter oak casks to continue its elevage for a period of 9 years (110 months). Following the traditional Riojan "barrel-to-barrel" method, a total of 16 rackings were performed—one every six months. The wine was hand-bottled directly from the cask in 1963 without filtration.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: A stunning pale reddish hue, brilliant and limpid. Its vibrant tone is remarkable, projecting vivid red and orange reflections. Entirely free of sediment.

 

Nose: Somewhat reticent upon opening and slow to unfurl during the first hour. Do not decant! The wine gradually ascends with evocative and uninhibited ferrous notes—reminiscent of blood, seasoned wood, and oxidized industrial elements (railway sleepers, rails, and rusted bolts)—followed by nuances of charcoal, arrope (grape must reduction), and toasted undertones. It initially possesses the character of an old 'vino quinado' (Sherry quinquina wine). This primary profile evolves step-by-step; the toasted and woody notes soften into caramelized sugar and fine vanilla, giving way to an emerging expression of stewed red and black fruit (figs, ripe plums). It continues to refine, gaining exceptional poise. The transitions are immensely complex, revealing scrubland, wine-soaked oak, cocoa powder, earthy minerals, and a floral touch of withered petals. Beautiful and fully intact. It bears a striking resemblance to the 1952 Berberana Cosecha Especial; the house style is unmistakable in every element. Simply extraordinary!!

 

Palate
The highlight is the palate: fresh, articulate, and tense, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that delivers spicy flickers and a finish with a subtle citrus-edged red fruit sensation. It could easily pass for a wine two decades younger. The initial attack is seamlessly integrated, displaying perfect proportions. This is a balanced, complex red with an elegance seldom seen in the second half of the 20th century in Rioja. It is a wine definitively linked to the 19th-century expression of Rioja, possessing a purity and definition that is truly formidable. It still has an extensive life ahead. Excellent!

 

Personal Score: 97
Price: 180€

Viña Albina 1956 Reserva

Wine: Viña Albina 1956 Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano, 5% Viura and others
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking:
Aged in cask from 1957 to 1972 before being hand-bottled. Then, it was stored in the old racks of Bodegas Riojanas. Initially, it was planned to be bottled as the regular Viña Albina Reserva in 1961. The finest casks were identified and chosen through rigorous tasting in the early years and set aside for extended aging separately from the rest. These barrels were aged for a longer period and finally hand-bottled in 1972. Throughout the first six years, the wine was racked every six months using the traditional Riojan 'cask-to-cask' method. To commemorate the centenary of Bodegas Riojanas (1890–1990) the wines werevcellared at the winery racks until 1990. 

Tasting notes

Appearance: Medium-high intensity with a deep reddish-ruby core, evolving into amber and tawny reflections at the rim. The contrast between the brick-colored edge and the meniscus highlights its noble aging.

 

Nose: A quintessential classic profile. It unfolds with delicate tertiary aromas of leather and stable, underpinned by ripe red forest fruits, vanilla, and dried tea leaves. As it breathes, it reveals sophisticated notes of orange marmalade, cherries in kirsch, and withered rose petals, all wrapped in a bouquet of aromatic herbs. It retains a remarkable, vibrant energy that bestows immense character and poise.

 

Palate: Perfectly aligned with the nose; a rounded and impeccably structured red. It offers a velvety, silken mouthfeel with a refined sweetness that persists from the first sip. This wine epitomizes the virtues of the legendary 1956 vintage at the Bodegas Riojanas Estate. The experience is one of pure finesse: fully integrated, melting tannins, succulent red fruit, and lingering nuances of smoked cedar and vanilla. Seven decades later, these wines remain the gold standard of La Rioja. Pure liquid artistry!

Personal Score: 96
Price: 180€