Winery: Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 65% tempranillo, 30% garnacha, mazuelo,
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking
This wine was sourced from a selection of the Lacuesta family's oldest estate-owned vineyards (majuelos). It underwent fermentation and an initial 24-month maturation in a single large wooden vat (6,000–7,000 liters) without temperature control. The wine was then extensively aged for an additional 10 years, until 1940, in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels to develop its unique character, undergoing periodic manual rackings. This was followed by a secondary maturation in used wooden vats for 25 more years—reaching a total of 300 months of aging. It was eventually hand-bottled directly from the casks in mid-1965.
Historical Note: This late bottling was personally selected by the estate owners and vinified separately to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the founding of Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta (1895–1965)."
Tasting Notes
Appearance
The wine presents an extremely pale, translucent brownish-ruby hue, with
an exceptionally low pigment load. It is one of the clearest, most
pristine, and brilliant wines we have ever encountered; its color
stability defies logic after nearly a century since the harvest. A very
fine sediment is present at the base of the bottle, which must not be
disturbed to avoid clouding the wine.
Nose
Expressive, as profound as it is ethereal, possessing immense complexity
and a powerful momentum that continuously builds. It opens with subtle
volatile notes that immediately project a trail of withered flowers,
kirsch-soaked red fruit, pomegranate juice, and strawberry tree fruit (madroños).
This is underpinned by a faintly balsamic and citrusy backdrop of
lemongrass and orange twist. It radiates quality, flashing notes of
cedar, cigar box, and exotic woods. Beautiful, ethereal, and mysterious;
it displays fantastic poise and solidity, devoid of any rough edges.
Upon aeration, it continues to evolve, acquiring a stunning autumnal
character of forest floor, humus, walnut bark, and marron glacé
Nose
On the palate, it is silky, almost devoid of tannins, with a deceptively
light and fragile appearance due to its pale color. A tightly wound,
fresh, and sharp red—more linear than broad—driven by a vibrant acidity
and unrelenting tension. There is a certain structural 'grip' that
provides freshness and allows the wine to take hold with remarkable
strength. Simply extraordinary! Without a doubt, this is one of the most
majestic wines ever crafted in Rioja. It has defied the barriers of
time, retaining so much life that it is hard to believe it is nearing
its centenary. Even six decades after bottling, it hasn't lost an ounce
of energy. I would venture to say it is in its prime, with a window of
25–30 years still ahead of it. This wine deserves our utmost reverence. It represents Rioja at its
absolute zenith. A unique and unrepeatable masterpiece that everyone
should experience at least once in their lifetime.
Personal Score: 100
