Wine: Berberana 1952 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo
ABV: [Not specified]
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking
The wine was initially aged for 18 to 24 months in large wooden vats dating back to the winery’s foundation (1877), where it underwent fermentation and maturation without temperature control. It was subsequently racked into seasoned 225-liter oak casks to continue its elevage for a period of 9 years (110 months). Following the traditional Riojan "barrel-to-barrel" method, a total of 16 rackings were performed—one every six months. The wine was hand-bottled directly from the cask in 1963 without filtration.
The wine was initially aged for 18 to 24 months in large wooden vats dating back to the winery’s foundation (1877), where it underwent fermentation and maturation without temperature control. It was subsequently racked into seasoned 225-liter oak casks to continue its elevage for a period of 9 years (110 months). Following the traditional Riojan "barrel-to-barrel" method, a total of 16 rackings were performed—one every six months. The wine was hand-bottled directly from the cask in 1963 without filtration.
Tasting Notes
Appearance: A
stunning pale reddish hue, brilliant and limpid. Its vibrant tone is
remarkable, projecting vivid red and orange reflections. Entirely free
of sediment.
Nose: Somewhat reticent upon opening and slow to unfurl during the first hour. Do not decant!
The wine gradually ascends with evocative and uninhibited ferrous
notes—reminiscent of blood, seasoned wood, and oxidized industrial
elements (railway sleepers, rails, and rusted bolts)—followed by nuances
of charcoal, arrope (grape must reduction), and toasted undertones. It initially possesses the character of an old 'vino quinado' (Sherry quinquina wine).
This primary profile evolves step-by-step; the toasted and woody notes
soften into caramelized sugar and fine vanilla, giving way to an
emerging expression of stewed red and black fruit (figs, ripe plums). It
continues to refine, gaining exceptional poise. The transitions are
immensely complex, revealing scrubland, wine-soaked oak, cocoa powder,
earthy minerals, and a floral touch of withered petals. Beautiful and
fully intact. It bears a striking resemblance to the 1952 Berberana
Cosecha Especial; the house style is unmistakable in every element. Simply extraordinary!!
Palate
The highlight is the palate: fresh, articulate, and tense, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that delivers spicy flickers and a finish with a subtle citrus-edged red fruit sensation. It could easily pass for a wine two decades younger. The initial attack is seamlessly integrated, displaying perfect proportions. This is a balanced, complex red with an elegance seldom seen in the second half of the 20th century in Rioja. It is a wine definitively linked to the 19th-century expression of Rioja, possessing a purity and definition that is truly formidable. It still has an extensive life ahead. Excellent!
The highlight is the palate: fresh, articulate, and tense, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that delivers spicy flickers and a finish with a subtle citrus-edged red fruit sensation. It could easily pass for a wine two decades younger. The initial attack is seamlessly integrated, displaying perfect proportions. This is a balanced, complex red with an elegance seldom seen in the second half of the 20th century in Rioja. It is a wine definitively linked to the 19th-century expression of Rioja, possessing a purity and definition that is truly formidable. It still has an extensive life ahead. Excellent!
Personal Score: 97
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