La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1990

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1990
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo.
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking

Tempranillo sourced from the oldest estate vineyards in Rioja Alta, primarily from Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba, with the remainder from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 30°C. The wine remained for 8 months in centennial oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation. In July 1991, the wine was racked into 225-liter American oak barrels for a 60-month aging period, with a total of 10 manual rackings. Bottled directly from the barrel, unfiltered, in July 1996.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium body; clear and clean, with subdued brilliance. Wide, orange rim.

 

Nose: The first impression is surprising, featuring macerated red fruit, cherries in liqueur, sloes, and a marked leatherware note in the background that gains intensity until it dominates the bouquet. Hints of noble wood, marine lacquer, and exotic spices (allspice) emerge. It possesses great personality and immense power. A complex array of scents follows, reminiscent of flint, gunpowder, ointment, and burning wick. While it does not quite reach the profound depth of other vintages, it remains at a very high level.

 

Palate: Currently at its peak. Silky and elegant, with velvety, caressing tannins and a slight sense of density. A very pleasant touch of sweetness contrasts with high-quality bitter notes. Ample, solid, and savory, with more than sufficient acidity and a completely rounded profile.

 

Commentary

The 1990 Gran Reserva 904 is in a "sweet spot" for consumption. It offers tons of pleasure through its seamless integration and velvety texture. Although it might lack the legendary verticality of the house's absolute greatest years, its reliability and charm make it a quintessential example of the La Rioja Alta style. It is a wine to be enjoyed now, as it has reached a state of perfect harmony that is unlikely to be surpassed with further cellaring.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 92