Viña Albina Semidulce 2001 Blanco Reserva

Wine: Viña Albina Semidulce 2001 Blanco Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasía Riojana
ABV: 13.5%

Winemaking:
Grapes are sourced from the south-facing upper edges of red wine vineyards—small, old plots planted on slopes in the Cenicero area. These sites are selected for their specific microclimate, which is cooler and more aerated. The fruit underwent late harvesting with over-ripening and points of noble rot (Botrytis). Free-run juice fermented in new oak barrels with spontaneous arrest. The wine was then transferred to used 225-liter American oak barrels of various ages, where it matured for 16 months. Cold stabilized and lightly filtered before bottling. Limited production of approximately 3,000 bottles (50 cl). Aged for a minimum of 36 months in the winery’s underground cellars before release.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Intense golden yellow; limpid and free of sediment. Remarkable 50mm natural cork in pristine condition. The wine shows a pronounced sense of viscosity—highly glyceric with fine, persistent legs. Brilliant reflections ranging from sallow to bright gold; truly radiant.

Nose: Remarkably consistent, it has not changed since last year. It remains stubborn, with an initially aloof and slightly woody character that demands aeration to fully express itself. Subtle citrus notes emerge alongside honey-lemon candies (Pifarré), almond blossom, and a backdrop of turmeric and sawdust that melts into the old wood. Secondary notes of cream, vanilla, stone fruit, and fennel remain discreetly in the background, suggesting their presence rather than asserting it. This is an unconventional nose that speculates more than it affirms.

Palate: Exquisite on the palate. Balsamic and bitter notes dominate, with tart accents perfectly integrated into the wine’s overall sweetness. A textbook classic Riojan semi-sweet: expressive and infused with notes of rock tea, fennel, lemon brine, and cinnamon. It grips the palate with a soft, never-ending persistence.

Commentary:
Tested alongside the 2008 vintage, this 2001 completely outshone it. We are in the presence of one of those rare wines that our grandchildren will surely have the pleasure of drinking. Simply the finest wine produced by Bodegas Riojanas in the 21st century.

 

Personal Score: 94
Tasting Group Average: 93

Tasting Notes (21/01/2015)

 

Appearance: Intense golden yellow; clean and, unlike other bottles, free of sediment. Brilliant copper reflections. High sense of viscosity with heavy tearing.

 

Nose: Requires significant aeration—not just hours, but potentially days. It sits far apart from any contemporary white wine. Upon opening, it displays a slight woody sensation of unpolished wine: jute, wood planks, varnish, mustard seeds, and bitter almonds, over a citric backdrop of grapefruit peel and lemon brine. Re-tasted a week later, the oak influence receded without the wine losing its structure. It shows a curious reduction reminiscent of herbal infusions (chamomile stems), joined by hints of anise, fennel, honey-mint lozenges, beeswax, vanilla, and dried tangerine peel. It defies the typical profile of a modern white, or even a standard sweet or abocado wine.

 

Palate: Chameleonic on the palate. It feels less sweet than the label suggests, less heavy than expected, and younger than its age would imply. Savory (sápido) and slightly bitter, with sweetness and acidity playing back and forth. It is incomparable to modern productions as it is one of the last of its kind.

Commentary: 
A wine from a bygone era, representing the classic semi-sweet style that was once common in Spain but has since all but disappeared. At €10, it is an absolute bargain, especially considering its remarkable resilience once opened.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90