Bodegas Palacio 1994 Reserva Especial

Wine: Bodegas Palacio 1994 Reserva Especial
Winery: Bodegas Palacio (Laguardia, Rioja Alavesa)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 100% Tempranillo
ABV: 12.5%

Winemaking:
Selected grapes from old vineyards belonging to various growers in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. Following de-stemming, the wine underwent fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, with a four-week maceration period. It was aged for 24 months in new 225-liter French oak barrels, subjected to periodic rackings. The wine rested for a minimum of 18 months in the winery’s underground cellars before its release in mid-1998.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Ruby-garnet with medium depth; translucent, very clear, and limpid, showing no signs of sediment. Lacking in reflections, with a matte finish. Broad, tawny (atejado) rim, barely distinguishable from the meniscus.

 

Nose: Open, expressive, and fragrant. It is perfumed and filled with notes of withered flowers and dried fruits. There is a sense of restrained maturity—even youthfulness—adorned with earthy undertones, ground spices, and a high-quality backdrop of fine wood. While highly appealing, it currently seeks further detail and depth. Remarkably, it presents itself like a wine fifteen years younger.

 

Palate: The palate confirms a positive evolution over recent years. It has shed the excessive rawness and rough edges that defined it in the late 90s. It is now a red of immense personality: polished and caressing, featuring cushioned tannins. The ensemble shows excellent balance, order, and roundness, with an undeniable elegance. It maintains its poise thanks to a well-integrated acidity that provides freshness. Far from being brusque or aged, there is a clear consensus on its formidable growth potential.

 

Commentary:
An atypical Rioja that feels disconnected from current trends, as if it belonged to another era. The result is optimal, potentially confirming itself over time as a truly safe bet. It is well worth seeking out more bottles. Alongside the 1995 Reserva Especial, and to a lesser extent the 1996, this represents the most interesting work from this legendary winery in recent years; more recent vintages do not seem to possess the same stature or potential. A major surprise.

 

Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Average: 95