Olarra 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Olarra 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Olarra (Logroño, Rioja Alta)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano
ABV: N/A

Winemaking:
Grapes were sourced exclusively from various growers in Rioja Alta, with a negligible portion from Rioja Alavesa. Malolactic fermentation took place in concrete tanks. Following an initial filtration, the wine was transferred to large oak vats for stabilization for 6 to 12 months. It then matured for 48 months in used American oak barrels (225L) with an average age of 10 years. The wine was filtered again before bottling and underwent a minimum of 36 months of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars before release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Ruby-red with medium depth; limpid, translucent, and refulgent, showing no signs of sediment. Vibrant orange reflections with a low sense of viscosity. Very broad, saffron-toned rim.

 

Nose: Consistent and fully integrated; a seamless and solid wine that possesses more structural integrity than most current releases on the market. It is rich in aromas of macerated red fruit, sloes, and old leather, with a background nuance of ground peppercorns. More subtle than overtly elegant, it gains complexity as it breathes, revealing notes of black tea, truffle, walnut bark, leaf litter, fine woods, and a hint of vanilla. Impeccable. 

 

Palate: Fresh and light-bodied on the palate. Its delicate touch might initially suggest a certain neutrality, moving away from the aromatic forcefulness shown on the nose. However, it does not lack energy; it simply follows a different path. It maintains a sharp "dagger" of acidity and remarkable clarity due to the nearly total absence of prominent oak influence. Dry, compact, and light, with formidable bitter notes.

 

Commentary:
One cannot help but surrender to these early wines produced by Bodegas Olarra. They stand in stark contrast to the winery's later productions, showcasing the unmistakable hand of Ezequiel García. Much like the debates between Monte Real vs Albina or Imperial vs Viña Real, this Olarra differs from Cerro Añón in concept but shares the same essence, remaining as vibrant and nervous as ever.

 

Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Average: 92