Contino 2004 Gran Reserva

Wine: Contino 2004 Gran Reserva (Magnum)
Winery: Viñedos del Contino (Laserna-Laguardia, Rioja Alavesa)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 10% Garnacha
ABV: 14.5%

Winemaking:
Manual harvest conducted between September 29th and October 15th, primarily from the "Las Anchas" plot and 60-year-old Tempranillo vines surrounding the San Rafael estate. A second selection was performed at the winery to ensure optimal grape health. Alcoholic fermentation and maceration took place in traditional, unlined concrete vats (15–20 days) at a stable temperature of 28–30ºC. After finishing malolactic fermentation in new oak barrels, the wine matured for 24 months in French and American oak casks (225L). Limited production of 2,693 magnums. Aged for a minimum of 36 months in the winery’s cellars before its release in January 2010.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Garnet-cherry with medium-high depth; dark and opaque. It shows virtually no evolution over the last five years. Refulgent and very clean, with a very fine sediment at the base. Orange-toned rim, sharply defined against the meniscus. High sense of viscosity with dense, persistent legs.

 

Nose: Powerful, spicy, and packed with ripe black fruit. It feels pure and almost wild, featuring a mineral backdrop of pencil lead that blends with black liquorice and roasted coffee beans. Although it possesses immense strength and complexity, it still feels like it is at the very beginning of its life. Over several hours of tasting, it remains reticent to change, adding subtle layers of English pipe tobacco, candied fruit, and smoked spices.

 

Palate: Granitic in structure with a formidable framework and marked varietal character. It possesses an abundance of everything: acidity, tannins, color, and fruit. Despite its apparent "hardness," it shows no signs of over-ripeness or lack of freshness. The only drawback is consuming it now rather than waiting several more years.

 

Commentary:
The quality of Contino’s Gran Reservas since the turn of the century is extraordinary. This 2004 belongs to a stellar series (2001-04-05-07) that represents some of the finest work currently coming out of Laserna. While distinct from the traditional CVNE style, it shares the same elegance and enormous aging potential. The Magnum format suits this wine perfectly—truly a bottle to cellar in quantity if possible.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 93

Tasting Notes (16/03/2009):

 

Appearance: Garnet-cherry color with medium-high depth; highly concentrated and dark. Vibrant reddish reflections and a brilliant sheen. Pristine, with no signs of sediment. Slightly orange rim, sharply defined against the meniscus. Densely tinted and persistent legs.

 

Nose: Powerful and "wild" (desbocado) on the nose, which does not detract from its elegance or complex detail. Macerated red fruits, slightly liqueur-like, are joined by vanilla, seasoned oak, aromatic coffee, and an endless range of spices. Subtle hints of blond tobacco and smoke emerge in the background. High intensity and presence, though it still feels somewhat unrefined.

 

Palate: Excellent attack on the entry—concentrated and exceptionally savory. Fruit-driven and marked by a piercing, intense acidity. The wine currently feels excessively spicy and firm, with rugose tannins and vegetal notes that have yet to fully integrate into the whole.

 

Commentary:
While perhaps not the most elegant Contino at this precise moment, it is undoubtedly the one with the greatest long-term aging potential. It is a formidable red that requires patience to allow its structural elements to harmonize.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: