La Rioja Alta 890 2004 Gran Reserva


Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 2004
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, Rioja Alta)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Mazuelo
ABV: 13.5%
Winemaking:
The grapes are sourced from estate-owned vines over 40 years old in Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. Notably, this vintage marks the first time Graciano from the Montecillo estate (typically reserved for the "904") is used, replacing fruit from Rodezno to ensure optimal ripeness. Following a strict selection process and fermentation in stainless steel, the wine was aged for 72 months in 225-liter American oak barrels (20% new, 80% four years old) crafted in-house. It underwent 10 traditional manual rackings in the historic Vigier cellar. Bottled unfiltered directly from the cask in March 2011, with a limited production of 38,000 bottles. It rested for at least four years in the winery's cellars before release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Dark ruby-red with medium-high depth; notably more extracted than previous vintages, similar to the 2001. Clean, brilliant, and free of sediment. Displays vibrant pomegranate and orange reflections with a youthful radiance. Narrow copper rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.
 
Nose: Powerful and open, initially dominated by a torrent of candied black fruits with a hint of over-ripeness—an uncharacteristic lack of "pedigree" (desencaste) for this label. The aromatic profile feels disjointed and stripped-back, with visible edges and a noticeable detachment between the oak and the wine’s structure. It feels stalled, offering balsamic registers that fail to add significant interest.
 
Palate: Improves on the palate, though it remains remarkably formidable. It is powerful and exceptionally hard—rigid and severe—with a granitic structure and pronounced tannins. While it shows a solid expression of ripe fruit wrapped in oak, it is currently raw (crudísimo) and unyielding.
 
Commentary:
A wine where the "seams" are clearly visible, lacking depth and feeling out of place within the 890 lineage. It leaves the distinct impression of a premature release or a questionable reformulation of a classic. At €90, one expects a wine that is true to its heritage; this bottle feels disconnected, requiring many years of cellar time in the hope that its components eventually integrate. A disappointing departure from the expected standard.
 
Personal Score:
Tasting Group Average:

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