Cune Monopole 1944

Wine: Cune Monopole 1944
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Viura, 15% Malvasía Riojana and Garnacha Blanca, 5% Palomino Fino
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking

Sourced from old-vine parcels belonging to several growers in areas near Haro (Chiuri, Anguciana, Tirgo, Sajazarra, etc.). Whole-cluster fermentation (not destemmed). Vinified in old oak vats and concrete tanks in the El Carmen cellar at the Haro winery. No specific data on the aging duration, though it is estimated to be under 24 months, likely split between seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels and the original fermentation vats. At the time of bottling, a 5% addition of Palomino Fino (already vinified as Manzanilla from Emilio Hidalgo) was blended in.

 

Tasting Notes:
 

Appearance: Golden yellow. Not excessively dark despite its age—nearly 70 years. Subtle sense of density; fine, persistent legs (tears).

 

Nose: A titan of strength—titanic, balsamic, and brimming with wild and herbaceous notes: bay leaf, fennel stalks, Mediterranean garrigue, aromatic herbs, rockrose tea, and chamomile infusion. It gains power, revealing a more mentholated character of camphor, herbalist shops, star anise, and a citrus-driven background reminiscent of honey and eucalyptus candies. We kept it in the bottle for several hours to observe its evolution; candied lemon and traditional Aragonese fruit candies emerged, all with great depth and unbridled power. It continues to grow, revealing high-quality oxidative rancio hints, solera nuances, seasoned staves, nuts, and a pungent, withered trail that brings forth that Manzanilla touch added to the final blend (perhaps we are influenced by knowing this in advance?). By the following day, it was enveloped in a mist of earthy tones, shaded forest floor, smoky notes, and a potpourri of exotic spices. Spectacular at every turn—unique, with an overwhelming personality.

 

Palate: Terrifying, pungent, and spirited (nervioso); saline, citric, and herbaceous. It offers oscillating glimpses of high-toned (acídulo) fruit, spicy candies, and bitter nuances, all built upon a razor-sharp acidity. This is a Rioja that doesn't taste like a Rioja: medium-bodied, fresh, electric, and enveloping. Somewhat aggressive due to its concentration, with an interminable finish that lingers for hours. A true vin de garde. Touché!

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Score: 95