Borisa 1966 Rosado Reserva

Wine: Borisa 1966 Rosado Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Logroño, Rioja Alta)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Garnacha, Tempranillo, Viura
ABV: N/A
Winemaking:
The wine rested for 12 months in tanks to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilization before racking. It was then aged for 24 to 30 months in used 225-liter American oak barrels. A minimum of 6 months of bottle aging in the winery’s underground cellars was required before its commercial release. Historically, the brand name "Borisa" was derived from the winery's initials (Bodegas Riojanas S.A.). For decades, it served as the flagship aged rosé of the estate, a range eventually replaced by the Monte Real Rosado Reserva (discontinued in the early 80s) and the younger Canchales and Puerta Vieja labels.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Brilliant reddish color with medium-low depth; luminous and exceptionally clean. Refulgent, showing vibrant pomegranate and orange reflections.
 
Nose: Powerful and fruit-forward, featuring a generous amount of ripe, reduced red fruit (strawberry tree fruit, watermelon, cherries in liqueur) layered over a classic Riojanas-style aging profile. Nuances of seasoned wood, creamy toast, and white pepper lead into hints of stable (pesebre), old leather, and cocoa butter. It possesses the aromatic soul of an ancient Monte Real Reserva. Immense personality.
 
Palate: Notably more vibrant than other bottles tasted to date. Savory, vigorous, and full-bodied, with an oily texture and intense acidity. It displays a structural firmness more characteristic of a Riojanas red than a typical aged rosé. The tannins are present and firm, lending great strength to the ensemble. It seems virtually untouched by time.
 
Commentary:
A true "rosado de guarda" (age-worthy rosé) that still has plenty of fight left. Its remarkable structure and freshness after more than half a century make it a historical curiosity of the highest order, standing as a testament to the longevity of traditional Rioja rosés.
 
Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 92

Tasting Notes (14/02/2014):
 
Appearance: A beautiful, brilliant reddish color with low-medium depth; luminous and limpid, showing no signs of sediment. It has the visual presence of a contemporary rosé. Displays orange and golden reflections.
 
Nose: Powerful and expressive with immense personality—completely open and communicative. It initially presents a traditional profile that differs little from a Monte Real Reserva of the same era. Notes of seasoned wood, leather, and creamy toast dominate, gradually giving way to a greater expression of reduced red fruit (strawberry tree fruit, sloes, maraschino cherries, pomegranate) with a touch of chocolate liqueur and cocoa powder. A generous presence of Garnacha is evident, continually unfurling to reveal notes of cocoa butter, toffee, and sweet citrics.
 
Palate: Concentrated, thick, and savory, driven by a strong acidity and remarkably lively, "rocky" tannins that are unexpected for its age. It offers a flow of citrus and reduced red fruit over a backdrop of old wood planks, toast, and high-quality bitters. Long and citric finish with a very fine, elegant rancio nuance.
 
Commentary:
A rosé approaching its 50th anniversary that remains incredibly young. Bodegas Riojanas clearly mastered the art of oak-aged rosés, which the years have only served to polish. This wine perfectly illustrates a traditional Riojan style that has largely been abandoned, serving as a testament to the magnificent potential of these products for long-term bottle aging.
 
Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90


2 comments:

Israel DLR said...

¡Guau, un rosado de casi medio siglo! Tiene un color espectacular, seguro que es un cañón frutal. Qué lástima que sea ciencia ficción probar algo así hoy en día. Quizá el Rosado Gran Reserva de Tondonia...¿lo habéis probado? Un saludo.

G12 - Els 12 Golafres said...

Son elaboraciones casi olvidadas pero que en su momento tuvieron mucho éxito. Hablamos de una epoca en la que hasta el mosto recibía un tiempo de madera, jejejeje!!!! Las grandes casa de Rioja elaboraban al menos uno o dos rosados criados en barrica: Riscal, Murrieta, Lopez de Heredia (5º Año), Bodegas Riojanas, La Rioja Alta, etc.

Es muy curioso por que si prescindes de la vista es casi imposible saber que estamos ante un rosado. Huele a larga crianza y tiene un bouquet lleno de notas amaderadas y cremosas. En boca es bastante ligero pero despunta la fruta, fresco y vivo, limado por los años.

A ver si un día podemos quedar y organizar un Viejunada en Euskadi como Diós manda!!! Un saludo!!!