La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1978

Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1970
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo.
ABV: 12.5% vol.
Viticulture
The Tempranillo is sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, primarily from the municipalities of Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. The remaining varieties originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno.
Winemaking
Fermentation was carried out in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, not exceeding 30°C. The wine spent 8 months in old oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and settle before aging. It was then transferred to 225-liter American oak barrels crafted by the winery's own coopers. The wine underwent 84 months of aging with a total of 12 manual rackings (trasiegos) in the iconic Vigier cellar. Bottled directly from the cask without filtration. Limited production of 25,174 bottles (75 cl).
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Very pale brownish-ruby color of medium-low depth; fully evolved. It shows bright orange and coppery reflections, clean and without sediment. Wide, tawny rim with a notable sense of density and thick, persistent legs.
 
Nose: The first impressions signal that we are before one of the legendary 890s. Of extreme finesse and great elegance—perfumed, intense, and deeply complex. Initial aromas of withered flowers, mountain tea (rock tea), and a hovering balsamic nuance give way to macerated plums, cloves, bay leaf, and a backdrop of sage and high-quality toasted notes. Extremely classic and mature at once. It gains expression and depth with aeration, revealing hints of cigar humidor, Virginia pipe tobacco, old leather, toffee, and vanilla. There isn't the slightest hint of fatigue; it is orderly and precise. It smells unmistakably like an 890, yet it is never repetitive.
 
Palate: Austere, dry, and compact; devoid of pyrotechnics but full of certainties. It takes hold with nerve and a crackling, vivid acidity, accompanied by tart tannins, vigor, drive, persistence, and integrity. It is single-minded and rocky, filled with spicy, reduced fruit, toasted spices, and an endless "mascletà" (explosion of flavors) that leaves one stunned with a mysterious, haunting bitterness reminiscent of Marmite. The finish clings to the palate for hours.
 
Commentary
This 1970 is one of the great "dark horses" of Rioja, a wine that seems to have moved among us quietly but stands alongside the winery’s finest vintages. It has nothing to envy of the 1989 or 1955 (in its current state) and possesses enough lifespan to reach the highest peaks. A testament to how brilliantly the 890s from the 70s are shining today.
 
Personal Score: 98
Tasting Group Average: 98

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