Viña Dorana 1970 Reserva Especial

Wine: Viña Dorana 1970 Reserva Especial
Winery: Bodegas Gómez Cruzado (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking:
Grapes sourced from small estate vineyards, local growers, and selected batches from Rioja Alta cooperatives. Vinification took place at the main Haro winery and the now-defunct Bodegas Torres y Montaña in Cenicero. Fermented in large wooden vats for 12 to 18 months to stabilize. It aged in old 225-liter American oak barrels for 48 to 60 months, with two manual rackings per year. Bottled directly from the barrel. Minimum of 30 months of bottle aging in the cellars of Haro's Station District (Barrio de la Estación) before release. Some batches were labeled as "Cosecha" and others as "Reserva Especial," though the wine is identical.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium depth; clear and clean. Vivid and brilliant reddish and amber reflections. Broad, fully tile-colored  rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Initially somewhat cluttered and tough, with a "funky" touch of mud and peat that raises concerns. This resolves after two hours of aeration, revealing a classic red profile: ripe fruits, cherries, blonde tobacco, creamy woods, and a background of sweet spices and pastry. A hint of wine-soaked wood lingers in the background without fully emerging.

 

Palate: Dry and sober, with a light and agile flow. A Viña Dorana where everything feels measured, orderly, and extremely balanced. While it lacks significant "punch" or tension, it features good citric acidity and a correct, spicy finish. Addictive and incredibly easy to drink.

 

Commentary:
A textbook example of the classic Haro style from a historic vintage. Despite its initial shyness, it blossoms into a balanced and elegant wine that represents the traditional spirit of Gómez Cruzado.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90