La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1976

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1976

Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and Graciano.
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Viticulture
A portion of the Tempranillo was sourced from the winery's oldest estate vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, primarily within the municipalities of Ollauri, Rodezno, and Cenicero. The Mazuelo and Graciano components came from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno. A small percentage of the blend was purchased from selected local growers’ finest plots, under the strict condition of meeting a minimum potential alcohol of 12% and being free of white grape varieties.

Winemaking
Rigorous grape selection upon arrival at the winery. The wine spent between 8 and 10 months in the winery’s original, centenarian large oak vats (tinos) to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize. It was then aged in 225-liter American oak barrels for a minimum of 72 months, undergoing 12 manual rackings (trasiegos) to remove sediment and allow for gentle oxidation. Bottled in mid-1983, it rested for at least 42 months in the cellar prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very pale brownish-ruby core of medium-low depth; clean but matte, lacking brilliance. It displays orange reflections and a wide, coppery rim with almost no distinction from the meniscus. Low viscosity, showing little to no leg formation.

 

Nose: Initial aromas of fine reduction (leather, noble woods, stable) give way to a denser, somewhat less refined reductive base: beeswax, wet wool, animal notes, Coptic incense, and antique shop... The passage of time is evident, and it struggles to open. Patience is required. After two hours, notes of macerated fruit in liqueur begin to emerge, alongside more pronounced toasted nuances, charcoal, ground bay leaf, and smoked pepper.

 

Palate: Light, remarkably ethereal, docile, and highly accessible. It is easy to drink, with a polished yet sufficient acidity. The tannins are elegant, fine, and velvety, accompanied by discreet notes of oak and vanilla. Round, classic, and gentle, offering immediate appeal. While it provides a pleasurable drinking experience, expectations were significantly higher. One of the more understated 904s tasted. Perhaps a bottle-specific issue? Technically correct throughout, but lacking in emotional depth.

 

Commentary
The 1976 vintage of the legendary 904 is a study in delicacy. While it possesses the hallmark elegance and traditional craftsmanship of La Rioja Alta S.A., this particular bottling feels more fragile and less vibrant than other historic vintages. It is a "quiet" wine that demands a slow pace and a contemplative environment, standing as a testament to the more subdued side of Haro’s classicism.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 90